Sophie Buhai & Timo Weiland
With Alexander McQueen up at the Met, we talked to two young fashion designers close to New York’s art community. Sophie Buhai is one half of coveted label Vena Cava. Timo Weiland collaborates on his eponymous label with Alex Eckstein – you might also recognize Timo and Alex as the DJs from the Brooklyn Museum Gala After Party and Artlog’s own parties. They share art and culture discoveries and talk about their approaches to combining art and fashion.
Two artworks from Sophie’s Artlog
I love the Ai Weiwei “flicking the bird” series. I like art that’s funny and that everyone can understand. I also like low-brow humor, so these images appeal to me. They seem like the Howard Stern of contemporary art photography.
Ai Weiwei, Study of perspective – Eiffel Tower, 1999. Courtesy of Galerie Urs Meile.
I’m also very drawn to the work of Brion Nuda Rosch. It reminds me of the collages my friends and I used to make out of old National Geographics. The colors are beautiful and I like the abstract quality. It feels both low-fi and minimal at the same time.
Brion Nuda Rosch, Flower Cactus Face, 2011. Courtesy of DCKT Contemporary.
How and why did you become interested in contemporary art and how are you involved with the art community?
I must admit I’m very lazy about getting to see new art in NYC, so I love your site! It’s great for lazy art lovers like myself. In order to keep my “edge” I make it to Armory show every year and do an art binge. Most of the new art I find out about is recommended by friends that are artists. I spend a lot of time on blogs looking for visuals, and I often find out about new artists that way.
My great Aunt is a collector of craft art, and I’ve recently become very interested in fiber art and modern jewelry. The craft art movement was huge among female artists in the 70’s, and I sense a big resurgence. I’m naturally interested in things that can translate into clothing or textile prints (since that’s where I’m always searching for inspiration).
Last season Vena Cava made a zine that went along with our runway show. The zine was made up of different pages all contributed by our friends. Some of them were established artists, and some of them were outsiders just making art. I loved working on that zine, it didn’t take itself too seriously and was a great way to bring together creative people that are my buddies.
Tell us about an artist you like?
I’m a big fan of my friend Ben Jones. He just did a cartoon for the Cartoon Network, and it’s going to be AMAZING. I love the way his humor comes out in his art. I also appreciate the way he crosses genres – he’s making kids cartoons and is also shown internationally in big-time galleries. He’s one third of Paper Rad and has worked on comics for The Simpsons. One of his cartoon characters wears Vena Cava.
Ben Jones, The New Dark Age.
Art and Fashion - where do you see the intersection?
I think it depends on the designer. I don’t really see a separation, it’s just a different medium. Of course if you were designing socks that might not be of the same magnitude as a painting by Goya.
But I do find that fashion can be very moving and expressive, in the same way contemporary art is. I hope I’m not butchering the idea of fine art, but once labels are set i think we become very limited. I mean have you seen some of this contemporary art?! Some of it looks like the piles of rubble I would walk past when I worked in Gowanus… and it’s beautiful!
Tell us about a person whose art taste you respect and why?
Ashley Butler – my best friend. “The Brain” was her nickname in high school. She works at Partners and Spade and has an amazing eye. She can find art on eBay, art at the flea market, and art on the street. She always knows who the cool artists are, and she’s never pretentious about her knowledge.
Discovery/Love
Gallery: Partners and Spade
Museum: Palais de Tokyo, V and A, The Frick, The Hollywood Wax Museum
Building: Le Corbusier, Chapel Ronchamp France
Movie: Robert Altman, The Long Goodbye
Book: The Razors Edge, Somerset Maugham
Band: Nick Cave and the Bad Seeds
Fictional character: Maude from Harold and Maude
Restaurant: Raoul’s in Soho
Bar: The bar at Wagon Wheel Bowl
Store: Maryam Nassir Zadeh or Costco
Town: Death Valley or Udaipur, India
Website: http://venacava.com
Three artworks from Timo’s Artlog
Because of the simplicity and color selection, this would be an arresting piece for an office or studio space.
Sam Francis, Untitled. Courtesy of Tibor De Nagy.
I have always loved his subjects and presentation.
Robert Mapplethorpe, Javier, 1985. Courtesy of Galerie Thomas Schulte.
I love this work because the inspiration for my last collection was colonial India mixed with wall art vandalism iconography.
Erik Olson, India, 2011. Courtesy of Skew Gallery.
How did you become interested in contemporary art? How are you involved with the art community?
I love the support system that exists in art and fashion communities. It is less dog-eat-dog and more support now and reap the benefits later. I often trade clothes for art with friends. I am very excited to have original pieces that complement my interior design aesthetic and overall brand statement.
George Condo, The Insane Queen, 2006. Courtesy of The New Museum.
A favorite artist?
George Condo – I like that I often feel scared when I see his work.
How did you get to where you are professionally? Where are you going?
I began designing clothes, houses, buildings, interiors, film sets, anything and everything at the age of five. Sketchbooks were and are a huge part of my life. I am focused on building a sustainable rtw business and plan to someday launch accessories, beauty, and wardrobe for studio feature film productions.
Art and fashion - where do you see the intersection?
I am inspired daily by art, specifically performance, film, music, photography, and painting. Whether it is a graphic print for a blouson or a backdrop for a short film, I am always trying to think up ways of incorporating new themes and textures into my work.
Tell us about a person whose art taste you respect and why?
Aby Rosen, because he is a phenomenal aesthete and has always been a tastemaker I have admired. He has close ties with the artists that he collects, and I really respect that.
Discovery/Love
Gallery: Elizabeth Dee Gallery
Museum: Cooper-Hewitt Design Museum
Building: Washington Mews
Movie: Love Songs
Book: Anthem
Band: Foster the People
Fictional character: Howard Roark
Restaurant: The House
Bar: Paul & Andre’s
Store: Pas de Deux / Odin New York
Town: Southampton, NY
Website: http://sunony.com
