Last week, the brand-new East London eat spot Tramshed flung open its doors to present its crowning conversation piece: Cock and Bull, Damien Hirst’s latest addition to his famed Natural History series. This time, a Hereford cow and a rooster are encased inside a formaldehyde-filled vitrine, which, at thirteen feet tall, presides over diners at the cafeteria-style space like some kind of big-screen television. Hirst also made a painting for the restaurant—its menu largely features steak and chicken dishes—that uses the characters from Cow and Chicken, an annoying animated Cartoon Network series from the nineties. For all the hype, it’s a shame the artist didn’t take a more inspired approach to the project. It could be worse.